Making a shark fishing pole


Making a shark fishing pole.

Photographs copied from http://www.wikihow.com/Make-a-Homemade-Fishing-Rod

I had fond memory of watching people fishing for sharks off the pier.  John Palmer was one that I could remember by name.  John did not talk much but he did talk with me.  I must have asked him a thousand questions about fishing for sharks and about his homemade shark fishing tackle.  John use a fishing rod mode of Calcutta bamboo with a 6 ought Penn/Senator reel.
The rods were easy to make but took considerable time depending on just what results you're satisfied. The poles I made took many, many hours from start to finish. It's all in the finishing, just how many coats of varnish, how the guide wraps are to look, etc.

After many days of asking John questions I finally had enough information to make my own shark fishing Pole. J.C. Strother Company had supply of Calcutta bamboo poles.  They were about an inch in miniature and twelve to fourteen feel long. The cost was $1.25.

Calcutta bamboo is not just any type of bamboo growing in someone’s back yard. Calcutta Bamboo, I believe it comes from India. The bamboo it very different from other type of bamboo. It is treated when it is harvested, by soaking it in used motor oil.  As a result, the bamboo has that brownish color. This bamboo is super strong, it bends just like fiber glass fishing rod. since these are holding a reel on I use the hybrid polyethene because it soaks into the cord much better than epoxy would. In fact, I used this same poly on the guides to. I had to do several coats but it dries fast, is easy to use and you can put on multiple coats with no issues. I use this same coating on the bamboo gaffs I make, I use it on the cord and the bamboo, it acts like a glue holding everything together. The poly is like water it soaks into everything also this poly is not slippery when it gets wets. The guides are placed on the nodes of the bamboo so you do not really notice the nodes. 

The first step was to cut (the saw was provided from my father’s work shop without his permission) the bottom off square the pole off at the nearest knot to the bottom of in the bamboo. 
The next step was to make the pole smooth by, remove the knots at the joints especially the areas where the "branches" were attached. The sanding was done heavy grit sandpaper all over, then using fine grit sand paper.  The sand paper was $0.10 total.

  
An easy to make pole would be 10 to 12 feet long, or whatever length you might like, with 5 or 6 guides plus the top or rod tip. The tip of the Calcutta bamboo was kind of large and finding a tip to fit was a challenge.  The tip was set by the size of the eye that would fit. You needed a tip of #26 or larger. The pole was cut to fit the tip and set the pole length to be about ten to twelve feet.  All total there were five guide eyes of different sizes.  Total cost guide eyes and tip was around $6.00

The tip was secured to the bamboo with a special glue (stick shellac) The shellac is better because it can be softened by heating if the tiptop ever needs replacing. This glue was solid and had to be lit under a flame to melt the glue on the tip of the pole to secure the tip eye.  Once the glued cooled the tip was stuck on securely, not to move under the most extreme condition. The glue stick was $0.95
     
https://flyrods.weebly.com/the-pliant-rod-blog--news/category/vintage%20tackle/5
After a few hours, the pole was ready for the first coat of varnish.  Don't use anything less than marine type varnish because it just will not last.! This varnish was made specially for work around salt water and could be purchased from Strother for $1.25 for a pint can.  Attaching the tip of the pole first allowed tied off with string tied to a branch of nearest tree.  This allow the pole to be varnish with any drips going down the pole.  These drips then could be sanded smooth.  The first coat of varnish It took a day to dry. 

I don't use manufactured reel seat. Instead, just measure up from the butt end about 26 or more inches and then, using nylon twine, color of your choice, wrap an area about 8 to 10 inches and use stainless steel hose clamps to secure the reel where ever fits you best. The area was wrapped with heavy line to provide a firm footing for the reel, and if the wrapping is extended a considerable distance forward of the reel it also serves as a grip. 





The eyes guides were fastening to the pole with nylon thread that was rainbow colors.  This takes a special wrap where just as you finish the wrapping, you pull the ends of the string back under the twine you have wrapped on There are no knots to tie, the tension of the wrappings holds the now hidden ends in place beneath the wraps. This wrapping is a time-consuming step in building the rod as you must make two such wraps for each guide.

The pole then received two coats of varnish.   The most popular reel was the Penn/Senator 000000 (6 ought).  This real could hold 875 yards of 80 lb. braided Dacron line.  The cost of the reel was $75 and the line was $12.50 for one spool of 800 yards. 

http://deanlevin.info/fishing-reels/penn-sea-fishing-reels/
The fishing hooks were stainless steel forged with Piano wire for leader with stainless steel swivel.  Cost was about $2.50.

The total cost of the rod and reel was over $150 and took 50 to 80 hours to make.  Not many teenagers in 1960’s had the money to buy a store-bought fiberglass pole and resorted to make their own Calcutta pole.  
Fishing for sharks is another story.
http://www.georgiasharkfishing.com/

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